Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Carnitas, Corn & Kitty Weed

When Elizabeth was in New York last week, she picked up two bags of catnip for Tracie from a place in Woodstock. She has long called this stuff kitty weed; cats go crazier for this than any catnip I have ever seen. Our cat tore into a bag one time when we left it out and then he passed out for most of the afternoon. Since Tracie has three cats, Elizabeth got her two bags.
 
And since Tracie had recently done a favor for me, I decided to cook dinner. I made two different kinds of sliders: 

One with Trader Joe's langostino with butter and tarragon.

And one with carnitas, braised onions and a vinegar-hot pepper sauce. Both were delicious.

I will talk about the onion rings later on this week.

While Tracie was inside at one point, a neighborhood cat came over and stuck his head in her purse. "He wants the kitty weed!" Tim pointed out. So Tracie took some out and sprinkled it on the ground. Predictably, the cat rolled around in it for a minute and then passed out.

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Fast Food Review: Popeyes Rip'n Chick'n

I'm a big fan of Popeyes and most of the time their promotions sound great. But when I read about this newest one my reaction was more of an Excuse me? than anything else.

"We cut a plump, all white meat chicken breast into strips," the advertisement states. From the picture it was clear that the pieces all remain attached. "We call it Rip'n Chick'n because you just rip and dip it," the ad continues.

I'll be honest: despite spending more time thinking about fast food than anyone ever should, I've never once thought You know what would make chicken strips more fun? If I could rip them apart myself.

Still, it's Popeyes. They have served enough great promotions over the years to earn the benefit of the doubt from me. So I headed to out to give them a try. I ordered the Rip'n Chick'n with fries and a drink for $4.99 plus tax.

I noticed they still had signs for the Firecracker Butterfly Shrimp that I wrote about last month. If you read that post, you may recall that Popeyes did not have the signature element of that promotion - the Firecracker sauce. (And some people who left comments also reported that the Popeyes they went to was not offering the Firecracker sauce.) Now I figured I could finally give it a try.

"Do you have the Firecracker sauce?" I asked the woman at the counter.

"Yes," she replied.

"I would like to buy two of them," I said, and gave her fifty cents.

30 seconds later I was slightly disappointed but not at all surprised when she returned and said to me "We don't have the Firecracker sauce anymore."

After 6 minutes I received my bag and I took it to my car to eat.

There's no other way to put it: it looked weird. Creepy. Somewhat sinister, like the amorphous debris that lurks in aquariums. But it was hot and crispy and smelled good, so I started ripping it apart.

To my surprise, there was a certain amount of simple joy in tearing apart the chicken pieces. I'm not saying I have found the one thing I've been looking for my whole life. I'm not even saying it was the culinary highlight of my day. I'm just saying it was more fun than I ever would have imagined tearing apart fried chicken strips could be.

The chicken was very good, just like Popeyes usually is. It was juicy and meaty; the batter was hot and crispy. (Like Burger King's chicken - only the exact opposite.) Supposedly it is battered with cayenne, habanero, white and black peppers, although the only one of those I could detect was the white.

My one complaint? It has little to do with the promotion, it's about Popeyes sauces.

I mentioned not being able to try the Firecracker sauce (on two occasions). For years Popeyes served "Delta sauce," a spicy sauce containing Creole mustard, relish, chipotle, and several other ingredients I love. They also had a horseradish sauce as good as any I've ever had. They no longer carry either. A little over a week ago I wrote about fast food condiments and I tried the Popeyes Spicy Honey Mustard. I asked for one of those on this trip.

"We don't carry that anymore," the girl told me.

"What do you have?" I asked.

"Ranch or barbecue."

This was disappointing. Popeyes went from having better sauces than any fast food chain - better than most restaurants, too - and now they have a weaker selection than an AMPM condiment stand. This chicken was really good and I would have loved it with one of Popeyes defunct sauces. Instead all I could dip it in was the buttermilk ranch, a completely boring sauce. 

Well, I guess since I carry Trappey's in my car I had one other option, and it was certainly better than the house ranch, but it wasn't great.

This is another good promotion from Popeyes, but I would not say it's great in the tradition of their crawfish, the Red Hot Popcorn Chicken, or the Wicked Chicken. But a very solid offering.

Monday, July 25, 2011

Fast Food Review: Burger King Chicken Minis

I never was able to try the Church's minis, and that's a shame, because I really like Church's fried chicken. But a few months back, when advertisements for the minis started appearing everywhere - including my mailbox - I went to no fewer than five Church's locations. None had the minis; none knew if they were ever going to.

The other night I was driving past Burger King when I noticed a sign reading "BK Minis." Burger King is my least favorite fast food chain (by far) but still I thought Why not? Especially when I got close and noticed that the minis look similar to the ads I saw for Church's minis. (There are two kinds of minis to choose from: burgers and fried chicken. But the former seemed too close to the BK "Burger Shots" of a couple years back, and I did not enjoy those.)

A four pack was only $2.99, which seemed like a reasonable amount. A couple of minutes later I was back at home.

I always like it when instructions are included on how to eat a product. It's even better when those instructions include "Enjoy."

Not terrible looking at first, although the warm mayonnaise leaking out and drenching the side of the container wasn't terribly appetizing.

Now I see why one of the instructions was "Tear" - the chicken patties are fused together. That's just weird.

The first bite was a surprise - it was initially amazing. The bun was the best bun I may have ever had from a national fast food chain. It was warm and soft like it had just been freshly baked. And the chicken was crispy. I was hit with a strong reaction: this tasted remarkably similar to my beloved KFC Chicken Littles.

But then I chewed it a little more. This was not a Chicken Little. The chicken, while definitely crispy, had no chicken flavor. It was just a processed blend of something with a vaguely chicken-like texture. The only real flavor was the breading.

I could not help but think how good these could have been with higher-quality chicken. And I'm not talking about Thomas Keller's fried chicken, I mean something along the lines of Church's... or hell, even McDonald's. But these thin, bland, conjoined pieces of chicken just didn't do it for me.

So I decided to add some additional flavors to the minis:

My jalapeno sauce that has made several appearances on this blog over the last few weeks. This was definitely a nice distraction. If I'd had some goat cheese I would have thrown that on, too.

Bull's Eye Carolina mustard sauce and pepperoncini. Also good.

Pickled red onions and barbecue sauce. This was too much. I like those flavors but they were so overpowering that they became all that I could taste... even the great bun disappeared.

The Chicken Minis are not the worst thing I have ever had from Burger King - not even close. And as I wrote, at first bite I actually kind of liked them. The buns were fantastic and the chicken was crispy. But it wasn't very good chicken, and overall that ruined the experience for me.

Friday, July 22, 2011

My Hot Sauce Adventure

Last Friday, when I wrote about trying 15 different fast food condiments, the first comment left was a question of whether my beloved Taco Lita hot sauce is better than any other condiment out there. Another comment or two, not to mention a couple of emails, convinced me that people would like to see a hot sauce tasting.

First I had to come up with the ground rules. As tempting as it was to buy 50 different kinds of hot sauce at the store - and sometimes it seems as if Baja Ranch Market carries at least 50 varieties of hot sauce - it just didn't seem plausible. Too many of the hot sauces I have tried over the years (and I've tried a lot) taste identical.

Then I came up with a more reasonable idea: I would only taste sauces that were either in my kitchen, my parents' kitchen (other than La Victoria, any hot sauce they have was most likely purchased by me) or, in the case of Trappey's, my car. Sure, this will leave out Tops' hot sauce, which I've always liked, Taco Treat's sauce, which I've fallen in love with in 2011, and even the McDonald's salsa whose name came up when discussing this idea. Also I was out of the bottle of Pico Pica that my friend Tim gave me earlier this year, which would have been a strong contender for the best sauce. But it still seemed the easiest way to decide what sauces to try.

As it turns out, I had fifteen hot sauces as well.

I grilled pollo asada, diced it up, and topped fifteen mini tortillas (I used a cutter to make them out of already-small corn tortillas) and topped them with cilantro and the pollo.

First up was the Taco Lita, the dark-red, thicker-than-normal taco sauce that I have been eating as long as I can remember. Surprisingly, it loses some of its appeal when it's not served with the crunchy tortilla; the sauce, while still delicious, overpowered the simple flavor of chicken and tortilla that I had created here. I still love the sauce, but from now on I will stick to homemade nachos and Taco Lita tacos when using it.

When Taco Bell released their two new flavors of sauce last fall, they immediately became my favorite thing about Taco Bell. The fire-roasted salsa actually tastes like it has fire-roasted peppers in it. Considering Taco Bell's cheese quesadilla doesn't even taste like it has cheese in it, I'd say that's quite an accomplishment. The salsa goes very well with tacos like this, but the flavor would most likely get lost in anything more complex.

The salsa verde, on the other hand, did not add anything to the taco. It is so mild that it paled in comparison to the tiny amount of cilantro. In a burrito with rice and chicken, a slathering of this sauce tastes good; such a small amount on this taco didn't offer any taste.

I was surprised that I had a packet of Taco Bell's "Hot" sauce. I have never been a big fan of their sauces. I imagine that while grabbing a giant handful of the previous two sauces out of the bin, one of these hot sauces made its way into my hand. I did not enjoy it with the taco; it was indistinguishable from many other generic foodservice hot sauce packets.

Ever since eating some nachos a couple of months ago and discovering got good they tasted under a deluge of Trappey's hot sauce, very few days have gone by without me adding Trappey's to something. I love the vinegary, slightly sweet bite to it. Unfortunately, after trying it with this taco, it became obvious that, to me, Trappey's goes much better with fried foods. So that's what I'll be using it for from now on.

D.L. Jardine's "Texas Champagne" is something I have used on eggs, flatbreads and nachos over the years, but never in a taco. And now I'm kicking myself: it was fantastic. It's salty, pleasantly hot (it reminded me of a pepperoncini, which I love) and full of pepper flavor. I actually poured a little in a spoon and took a taste just to see if it truly was this delicious. It was.

Almost everyone has had Tapatio before. I certainly have, many times, so I was surprised at how hot it was. It was one of the hottest sauces I tried. But that doesn't mean it wasn't delicious. Years ago I worked with a half-Mexican, half-Salvadoran guy, and he always made fun of me when I would add Tabasco to pizza - especially the chipotle Tabasco, which I was addicted to in those years. Finally one day I brought in some Tapatio and he agreed that was an acceptable sauce and he would no longer make fun of me. In the years since then, I have mostly forgotten about adding Tapatio, and this was a great reminder that I should not have, because it is a great sauce.

This giant bottle of Tabasco was in my parents' fridge. It's possible the bottle has been there for ten years or more. (Tabasco won't spoil.) I eat Tabasco's Buffalo sauce a lot these days, and their Sweet & Spicy sauce when I can get my hands on a bottle, but it's very rare that I consume the original sauce anymore. I was shocked at how spicy it was. I mean, I loved it, but I just didn't remember it having this much flavor. I'm not going to start keeping a bottle of it around - there are too many other sauces that I like more - but it's nice to know that if I ever need some I can come get this bottle from my parents, who will probably have it in another ten years.

I discovered the 7 Mares hot sauce at Tacos Ensenada in January. Although it certainly complemented my fish tacos nicely that day, I did not see that it necessarily made them better than any number of hot sauces would. The claim of being a "sea food hot sauce" confuses me. Still, it went nicely with this mini taco and, like Tabasco, provided much more heat than I was expecting.

Ah, La Victoria. This is the stuff I grew up eating. My parents always had - actually, they still do always have - at least two bottles of this in the fridge and anywhere between two and ten bottles in their cupboard. Even when I was younger I thought this stuff was too bland and would add a drop of Tabasco to it.

So now I find it much too bland. But it is actually flavorful. It has the texture of a tomato sauce - and about the same heat level - but the flavors of tomato and pepper are certainly noticeable. They sell this stuff in varying levels of heat, my parents just happen to have the wimpiest level, and I imagine there might be some value to the hotter versions. But this mild sauce does very little for me.

When I asked the aforementioned co-worker what his favorite hot sauce was, he told me Valentina. I'd never heard of it. That night at the store I looked for it and found a one-liter bottle on sale for an absurd price. (I want to say it was 89 cents, but that can't possibly be right.) I bought it and tried it the next morning with breakfast. It was awesome: very hot but not painfully so, vinegary and runny. As part of this taco adventure, it was perfect, the best of the hot sauces I tried. The spice complemented the citrus flavor of the chicken beautifully.

Del Taco's mild sauce was another one I was surprised to find in my kitchen drawer. It tastes identical to Taco Bell's "Hot" sauce, adding nothing to the taco. This was the only sauce I tried that I wished I hadn't bothered with; the chicken would have been better by itself.

The Del Scorcho sauce used to be Del Taco's hottest sauce, and I gladly poured it on their chicken soft tacos (long a guilty pleasure of mine) and mixed it with ketchup to dip their fries in. But I haven't had any in a long time. It was fine, probably the best of the non-Taco Lita hot sauces I tried, but it can't hold a candle to any of the bottled sauces.

I have a lot of respect for Del Taco for coming out with their Del Inferno sauce. Unlike anything Taco Bell has ever created, unlike even El Pollo Loco's jalapeno sauce, this Inferno sauce is spicy. It's so rare that a fast food chain ever advertises something as spicy and then comes through with it; this sauce is a welcome exception to the rule. Funny, though... trying it alongside the Valentina and Tabasco, it really didn't seem that spicy. It's still good for a fast food sauce, but it's not great.

When I saw my friend Zach last weekend, he had just gotten home from vacation in Belize and he had a present for me: a bottle of Marie Sharpe's "Comatose Heat Level" hot sauce. The word "BEWARE" takes up most of the space on the label, as you can see. I saved this for last on purpose. I shook a few drops onto the taco and took a bite. It was delicious. I have to say, if you don't love - not just like, love - heat, you're gonna hate this. And it might be really painful for you.

But I loved it. Up front was the unmistakable sweet taste of habanero, and then a good five seconds of nothing. I knew what was coming: an intense heat building on the side of my tongue, crawling over the middle, and then my brow breaking out in sweat. And I wouldn't have it any other way. Would I shake more of this stuff onto tacos? Probably not. But I do love the flavor and can see myself mixing it with many different things in years to come.

If I had to rank my three favorites, it would be like this: 1) Valentina, 2) Texas Champagne, 3) Tapatio.

Have a great weekend.